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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble place achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.